D'Arenberg & Kangarilla Road @ McLaren Vale

My last post on Adelaide. Sigh. Still on my mini-blogging with less words to try and fit this all in, but at least the pictures turned out.

Isn't Mclaren Vale muchos splendidos? Rolling hills, vine leaves a flutter and wine wine everywhere, and lots of drops to drink. We only had time for two wineries, due to a lazy start and lots of goofing around on the grounds, but I wouldn't have changed a thing. I swear I've seen D'arenberg in off licenses (bottle shops to them Ozzies) in the UK, with that distinctive red stripe. I'm not going to attempt to name what we tried, it's just not possible after all the excitement. One relevation to me was Sparkling Shiraz, which is very South Australian. Sadly I don't think much gets out, I love that rich burgundy colour which has the same dazzling effect as white sparkling wine. D'arenberg's only one was slightly sweet, berried, possibly a little vanilla-ed and sophisticated.

My guilty purchase was their 2007 Noble Prankster dessert wine, a blend of Chardonnay and Semillon. Quite the opposite from a prankster, it was like a gentleman's kiss: sweet, gentle, strong and so memorable afterwards.

We then meandered down to Kangarilla Road, a smaller winery with a large open tasting room that was half warehouse, half granny's living room. To the left of the tasting counter was a simple, graphically striking poster with five different leaves, denoting different different grape varietals. Did you know that each grape has a different leaf? I didn't. I do now.

This time's treat was the 2007 Primitivo, which was a little tannic, drier and even raspberry-like.

We got tipped off by the rep to try some grapes off the vines on the way out. Niiiice.

First thing to do is nominate a responsible non-drinking driver (good luck) Then check in at the McLaren Vale & Fleurieu Visitor Centre for a map, find your wineries and work the route. And even if you're route is just two stops, indulge in this ravishing landscape.
 
Tastings in SA are free (yay!) and some wines are only sold at the cellar door.

A Day in Adelaide

Life is sweet (and savoury) right now.

When in SA, start with a mighty caffeine boost by Taylor Blend on Hallett Road, the artisan coffee shop this side of Melbourne. These men have passion for their craft, beans are selectively blended and service is at warp speed during peak times. Be nice and they could grace your flat white with a Taylor-made frothed milk smile.

Mooch around Adelaide's Central Markets for brunch, SA's answer to Borough Market with bigger tasting portions. I liked starting at the back with fruit and veg, finding some bargain bunches, and working my way to the front for the gourmet bits. Cheese, meats, fresh fish, bread, dips (there was a seller that just specialised in dips!), bakeries, you name it. Displays are full, bursting forth with fine Aussie produce.

When you're smacking your lips for the afternoon sweet fix, head to Prospect Road for Muratti, an unassuming patisserie that looks like a prime candidate for Restaurant Makeover. I swooned over my light-as-air hazelnut mousse wonder, crowned with crunchy tiramisu "cigarettes" made out of meringue.

And for the real icing on the cake, there's only one dinner choice. Any Adelaidean worth their foodie stripes will raise their eyebrows in approval at the utterance of Red Ochre. Near the River Torrens (where I saw those fiendishly beautiful Black Swans), it prides itself on using only Australian ingredients and a modern Australian menu. And you bet I tried the crocodile cakes (tasted like fish!), emu meat and kangaroo steak. Just for the record, kangaroo is bliss with roasted peach.

Can you have too much of a good thing? Naahhhh. I miss you, sweet Adelaide. A big shout out to one of my dearest and oldest friends, KK, for being the perfect culinary guide!

Banh Mi & Pho a la Adelaide

Like Japanese food in Oz, Vietnamese food has attained a higher level versus what I've found in London. Walk down Kingsland Road and it seems to be transformed into Little Vietnam, but most menus are the same, offering only the classics with few diversions. Down here there are more places specialising in one type of Vietnamese cuisine, like the affable Banh Mi stall in Adelaide's Chinatown, and Pho Minh for noodles in Manfield Park.

Can't you believe before this I was a Banh Mi virgin? Not any more, thanks to Vietnamese pro HL. She tells me there are some notorious joints in the Northern Adelaide 'burbs, but Banh Mi in the International Food Plaza is a great first introduction.

It's crusty, crackly bun holds Roasted Pork with Crackling, so juicy and with good oiliness. Fresh carrot and cucumber give it a light foil, all coated in heat from the chilli sauce and unctuous egg mayonnaise. Cue Vietnamese Coffee to wash it all down. This bean is smoky and deep, filtered in what looks like mini tin teapots over glasses. Doused in ice and mixed with condensed milk, it's sugary and creamy texture is irresistible.

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Contrast that with a dark, aromatic soup at Pho Minh packed with anise, basil, onion, coriander and my mixed selection (amongst thin strips of beef was LOTS of cartilage, shudder). Only thing it lacked was a touch more seasoning, though nothing some fish sauce couldn't fix. They only use fresh noodles here, all handmade with varying lengths and widths.

I kept thinking about Banh Mi on the plane from Adelaide. Should have done a takeaway for the trip! AUD$8 for the sandwich and AUD$12 for the noodles.

Banh Mi - Vietnamese Rolls
Shop 3, 13-21 Moonta Street
International Food Plaza
Adelaide 5000
Tel: +618211660

Pho Minh
7/86 Wilson Street
Manfield Park
(Opposite the Community Parks)
Tel: +618244 6288

Yakitori Takumi

Change of scenery. Away with the lofty highs of Sydney, onwards into the warm Aussie heartland of South Australia's capital, Adelaide. Since arriving, there hasn't been one moment when the skies were not azure and we weren't bathing in the sun's resplendence. This is what I'm talking about.

Japanese food in Oz punches well above the weight of its London counterparts. Fish here is in greater abundance and variety, and the cuisine has reached a higher sophistication owing to a much larger Asian population. After the near spiritual epiphanies of Toko and the Fish Markets (yes, I continue to rave on!) in Sydney, I continue my pilgrimage in an unexpected enjoyment of a yakitori.


This style of Japanese cooking of grilling little skewers looks foolproof. Don't be fooled. My last experience was at Bincho, Soho in London, and their dried, rubbery sticks were an overhyped, disappointing shamble. Yakitori Takumi could show them a thing, or ten, in our case.

Aren't those little tree trunks of mushrooms in the corner great? Called King Mushrooms, I also found them in Adelaide's Central Markets which is another story...

Seating 35 people at the most, this intimate space instantly draws me to sit near the grilling action.

Very short-shortsightedly of me, I hadn't taken down the Japanese names, so going to give them some English ones. Fried Mushrooms with Green Tea Salt. I loved that salt, adding a smoky dimension to the luscious mushies.

Octopus Puffs with Bonito Flakes. Takumi does the fried stuff brilliantly. The exterior so perfectly crunchy, not dry on the inside. These little balls contained chopped octopus, still bouncy and not stodgy, which most versions can be. Topped with the right amount of sweet Japanese mayonnaise.

Grilled pork belly skewers with kimchi. Succulent pork with sour and salty cabbage is a must try. Tangy tingles jumped up and down my palate.

Grilled chicken skewers. A yakitori classic, well cooked, but on the boring side.

Fried tofu steaks. Yeah. Oh hell yeah! So meaty and perfect with a little drizzle of mirin and soy. Some simplicity to balance out the other dishes.

Grilled duck liver. No. Oh hell no. Not my cup of tea. Only if you're into innards.

Grilled Duck Gizzards. Not as bad as the above, somehow these get crunchier on the grill, and with some chilli flakes is actually rather delicious.

Fried oysters with mayonaise and sweet-sticky sauce. Imagine oyster katsu. Bitter oyster, sweet sauces and savoury casing. Let's all take a moment to be amazed.

Grilled pork belly. Kinda like Japanese bacon and grilled. Ho hum.

Grilled squid with chilli flakes. An example of how squid should be grilled. Losing originality in these descriptions whilst thinking of all that sweet, salty, sour.

Mixed mushrooms in broth and truffle oil. Disappointing. After the initial waft of intense truffle, the flavours get lost in the mouth. Much like bland mushroom water.

Onigiri (Japanese rice ball) in chicken broth. Ah, we are back on track. Beautiful stock, more like a consomme. The rice ball was surprisingly crusty despite being in the soup. More like a little sesame biscuit with a nutty aroma.

Yakitori Takumi is run by Eddie, owner and chef with eyes that look like cartoony half-moons when he smiles. Humourous, warm service, he makes grilling looks easy. This is all about doing something very well, without trying to be too fancy. I'm jealous of you Japanese lovers in Adelaide. Dishes are on average between AUD$7-10 each.