La Smorfia - Takeout!

We all know those days. A late work night, awful weather and feeling devoid of any culinary imagination. So take-out it is. Let's not get up on a high-ground now, you know who you are if you've dialled for take-away pizza!

I've not been reduced to the lowest of the foodie castes just yet. I have been eyeing local Italian La Smorfia in West Hampstead who offer a take-away service, with pizza ready in a mere 10 minutes! I don the waterproof trench and out into the damp night I go to pick up my Fiorentina. It's there ready and waiting, served by a smiling pizza-maker.

Gorgeously thin crust, topped with a fine smattering of ingredients. Spinach was just wilted, the mozzarella was still stringy and a partially poached, soft-boiled yolk made this one a clear winner. The pizza came already seasoned, I'm always partial to a bit of cracked black pepper. A refreshing glass of white wine, and it's happy days.

Pizza and wine is exactly the refuge one needs when battling the pangs of mid-week food guilt. My Fiorentina was a modest £9 and just perfect for one. La Smorfia is a worthy resident in the assortment of Italian bistro and eateries that line West End Lane (the West Hampstead high street), and I'm keen to return to try the pasta dishes. Va Bene!

Scrumptious Sicily: Part 2

It's really the simple things that make a good holiday a great holiday. In this low-cost airline era, getting to a decent beach given the right time of the year, is hardly a challenge. The challenge is finding those small, and seemingly easy details which need to be done well to elevate the holiday standards. And these were my highlights on those "icing-on-the-cake" touches..

Granita & Gelato

We try to be jack-of-all-trades these days, it's not nearly enough to just be darned good at one thing. Sicilians (and indeed Italians) laugh in the face of this, especially when it comes to these icy deserts, judging by how many graniterias and gelatarias are located all over the island.

Who can resist this glossy, full-bodied and profusely indulgent ice cream variety. I say "variety" of ice cream because it's not really like the regular stuff, is it? If gelato was a lady, it would be the generously busty, wholesome and magnetic opera-singing diva on stage!

Yet another Sicilian special, granita. Much less full-bodied, this is the bikini-clad, flippant fling you only have when it's a beach holiday. I love how both gelato and granita come in infinite flavours, there are whole boards filled with every possible imaginable and unimaginable flavour. Above was a flirty cherry granita with chopped bits of the fruit mixed in, a perfect apres-sun cooler!

Tuna

No surprises that an island bears great fish, it's a particular type of tuna that fills these waters though. Off the North West coast of Sicily are the Egadi Islands, of which the largest is Favignana and is a sublime little day trip. We chanced upon an adorable semi-Tunisian style cafe called Camarillo Brillo, and these two fantastic tuna dishes kept us smiling:

Super-duper tuna burger! Not sure that I've ever had a tuna burger before, this was the real business. The pate was firm but succulent, and had roasted pine nuts mixed in. Slightly sauteed chips with fresh pesto was a darling accompaniment,

Tuna with raisins, almonds, tomatoes and balsamic glaze. Sounds incredibly simple, but again it was like tasting the earth and sea on a plate. Remember, it's all in the small details!

And finally, I completely digress food-wise with this highlight, but it was so worth showing:-

Favignana is one of those beautifully unspoilt and untouched tiny islands where time just stands still. The shore is still amazingly shallow even 100 metres into the sea, so you can walk a fair bit into the sparkling azure waters. What better post-lunch rendezvous?

Scrumptious Sicily: Part 1

The August Bank Holiday ends, we have a London Tube strike and the days will now get shorter. Call me Little Miss Happy right now! Despite the uncomfortable truth, I'm still basking in the glory of the most awesome mini-holiday in Sicily.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, and it's rich historical influences of Arabic, Asian and of course European provide the scene to many Italian food heroes. You know these suspects: arancine (risotto balls with fillings such as cheese, vegetables or meat), granita (the icier version of sorbet, in more flavours than there are fruits) to caponata (chopped aubergine stewed with tomatoes usually served with as an appetiser).

I debated about what to blog about with Sicily, it's a true foodie di-, even multi-lemma when literally all that comes into contact with your gastro senses is truly mind-blowing. For me, Italian food is a direct product of it's fertile land, glorious weather and stunning coastline. As Sicily is an island, seafood is the prima donna with vegetables and wine being its starlet chorus!

So I decided to report back on my top two discoveries from this trip, and what a job. It was like picking the winner of a beauty parade of palate pleasers. In a special two-part series from Hungry Female, here are the first two highlights...

First, my new favourite pasta shape: Busiate!

This curly number is a pasta sauce dream. Essentially it is tagliatelle with a perm, and a tremendous friend to all kinds of pasta sauces since its twists and turns collect any chunky or smooth bit of food it can tangle with. As a result you get ideal quantities of food and pasta in one mouthful, genius!

 

Above, this was my first taste of busiate: aubergine roasted to tender awesome-ness, tuna, in a tomato stew. Below, full-on seafood busiate!

Busiate makes appearances all over Sicilian menus, one sauce I didn't get around trying was pesto alla Trapanese, which I assume refers to it's birthplace of Trapani, a port town an hour away from San Vito.

We were lucky enough to chance upon some busiate making, by a quintessential Italian mamma:-

These tiny delicatessens are adorably independent. Our little cook was drying pasta ready for the next day, and all that was in her matchbox shop was pasta and pasta sauces. One type of twist I could do again and again.

Second up, something they call Sicilian caviar, Bottarga.

(image from whatdoyouthink.wordpress.com)

As Sicily's main fish is a variety of tuna, fish roe is obviously an easily acquired item. It is massaged, dried and cured with sea salt to form a tube or slab. It can then be sprinkled as a topping or ingredient, such as in the heavenly pizza above. Those familiar with the Chinese, Spanish or Portugese kitchen will understand the concept of dried salted fish as a flavouring, the advantage of this is that it's instant, uber, fish-a-licious-ness! No hydration required to get the sea salt hit. 

Hang on for part 2! There was really so much to write about these magnificent flavours. If you ever find yourself on this dreamy island, you must visit Dal Cozzaro (where I had the aubergine and tuna busieta), Syrah (the seafood busiate) and Il Timone (for pizza). Service is always relaxed, friendly and oozing with charm. The average price for a pasta or pizza was between 8-10 euros. 

“In France food is all about the genius of cooks, in Italy it’s all about the glory of God.”

How true!

Tempo

How great is it when you can actually say London is too hot? Friday night with the girls, cocktails in a pretty place was right up my alley at the end of this week. As I was walking through the lush Green Park where there were striped deck chairs aplenty with sun-worshippers, a cold glass of Prosecco was calling my name. I'm all over it!

Tempo is a newly opened contemporary Italian restaurant in the heart of Hedge Fund Alley aka chichi Mayfair to the rest of us. Despite the menu being very Italian, Japanese chef Yoshi Yamada is behind the articulate and original take on Italian cooking which is just right for this Mediterranean heatwave. Here were the highlights:

Seared Octopus and Pomegranate: One of the great inventions of Italian eating culture is how they have starters before starters. A cicchetti is too large to be an amuse bouche but too small to be an actual appetiser. The octopus was beautifully seasoned and seared just right, and I loved it against the vibrant parsley, green apple and pomegranate, though two slim strips of octopus looks a little mean, no? Cicchetti or not, Italian cooking has to feel like it's inviting and hearty.

 

Taglioni of Fresh Cornish Crab, dill and Lime: Now this is more like it. Taglioni has a wonderful ability to let any ingredient that comes into contact with it cling on for dear life and be a carrier of flavours. This dish showed a new take on typical seafood pasta, the zing from the lime and herby peaks from the dill really brought the crab into zesty new life. 

Venison Carpaccio, pickled beetroot and summer vegetables. A rather interesting style of carpaccio, usually the meat is very rare, paper thin and quite animally in taste. The venison was seared and then sliced thinly, which made it more steaky, but I really enjoyed the contrast of that with the sour beetroot. 

Tuna Loin, Roasted Peppers: I was quite middle of the road with this dish. It ticked all the boxes in a technically cooked tuna with roasted vegetables, i.e. pink in the middle, soft and sour from the peppers but didn't have the x-factor.

Halibut, clams and zucchini: And back on track with this fish - halibut was cooked well, lots of juicy tomato goodness which you could dip bread in, and the clams topped off the seafood savouryness of it all. A large portion to share for two, we appreciated the providence of this course.

I did warn you we were on a girly Friday. Chocolate Fondant with Vanilla Ice Cream. May I be so bold to say the Hungry Female does a chocolate fondant, and I would wouldn't feel intimidated by rivalling this one! There was a good hit of dark chocolate, but more cooked than oozy and just quite boring actually.

Lemon Tart: Awesome. So lemony, we were regaling stories of lemons and limoncello from the Amalfi coast. The top was burnt to give a creme brulee effect - genius! One of the best lemon tarts I've had in a while. 

Summer Berry Tart with Raspberry Sorbet: Light, fruity and an all-round crowd pleaser. I would have preferred a sharper tasting sorbet but that is personal preference.

Overall, I enjoyed the experience, however there were some dishes that completely outclassed others. It's not the standard approach to Italian food, so whilst I'm sceptical, I could be persuaded into a second visit. We scored on an opening week deal, shaving 50% off the total bill, so it will be interesting to see if standards change after the deal ends. With our deal it was £35 a head, including 2 bottles of wine and 10 dishes.

(Thank you to foodie friend J for letting me pinch those pictures!)

Donna Margherita

Woot woot! Have you caught World Cup fever?

I feel rather sorry for the England team at the moment, after the poor slippery-handed goalkeeper conceded THAT goal.  Still early days though, and apparently the winning team in '66 also drew in their debut match. Come on England!

Whilst down in Clapham for England's first match, we decided to honour Fabio Cappello in a visit to Donna Margherita, an authentic Napoletan pizzeria which received a 5 star rating from Time Out. Having been to Naples in April, I felt empowered by my experience and more qualified to pass judgement. Me, opinionated? Nooooo.

About fifteen minutes walk from Clapham Junction station, it's not on the main strip where most restaurants are in the area. Rustic and welcoming, there are some slightly cheesy touches, such as a food display covered in pizza bases that make you chuckle. Waiters are smiley, welcoming and attentive. The menu is typically Italian, starting with Antipasti, Pasta, Meat, Fish leading into the pizzas.

Pizza Gay: Yes you heard it right. There's also a Pizza Lesbica. Not entirely sure why, is it to promote PC-ness? Diversity? It's a diverse pizza alright. It's actually one pizza with 2 "flavours". One half was almost a plain margherita with anchovies, the other was scattered with rocket, cherry tomatoes, parma ham and giant parmesan shavings. Lush and fragrant from the basil leaves dotted around, these signature Italian tastes are always comforting.

Pizza Prosciutto e Funghi: Ham and Mushrooms to you and me. I was confused on this one, isn't prosciutto thin slivers of ham? We got a kinda english ham here, but maybe that's what it was meant to be. I would have preferred for both bases to be more cracker-like and smoky.

Handmade Seafood Pasta: now this was the business. Nothing really beats seafood juices from prawns, mussels, squid and clams mixing into garlic and tomatoes. This pasta was reminiscent of Puglia, heavier and irregular but nicely al dente. Excellent flavours and possibly one of the better pastas I've tried in London.

Whilst the pasta dish was very enjoyable, I felt slightly underwhelmed by the pizzas and the hype it had been given. Our meal was a bit like the England team, the raw ingredients, the spirit, the flashes of inspiration. It just needs the extra umph to drive those goals firmly and precisely home. But because we see that innate potential we're not wiping it off the list just yet. 2 bottles of wine, 2 pizzas, 1 pasta and a salad was a very doable £25 per head.

Giant Robot

Have I told you there is a little tapas trend going on here in London? Not just the regular stuff though, tapas that has morphed past just little plates of fried potatoes, integrates and introduces different cuisines and reflects how Londoners have changed in their approach to food. It's now much more acceptable to share food, and welcome in the communal fun. Unlike the days when everyone used to order their own and be dying inside with food envy or begrudge someone else for asking if they could try the dish you raved on about. London has embraced family style sharing with pizazz!

London is also unafraid of fusing the previously unfused, re-wrapping in hip packaging. Giant Robot in media-loving hangout Clerkenwell is one such example of this new gastro iteration. Enter the former location of Match bar, it has New York kitch-y retro semi-diner decor. They hadn't put up a cocktail menu when we visited, so offered to make-up any cocktail on request. I think this is a nice touch bars are beginning to do more of.

Notice the funky space-age ceiling!

At first glance it's Italian food served tapas style (sound familiar?). Then upon closer inspection, it's American Italian food served tapas style. Ooohhh, the Hungry Female gets excited with these little discoveries. The hint was in the meatballs and the Baked Alaska dessert. Baked Alaska! I believe these were very respectable in the Eighties. 

The menu resembles one you'd get in a diner. There are Small and Big versions of certain dishes in case you want to behave or super-size it.

First up, a selection of Crostini: basically various roasted vegetables arranged rustically over crostini bread. They were like little kisses from the mediterranean. Some had bits of rocket (or arugula if you were from Nu Yawk) for a peppery kick.

Walnut, Roquefort and Chicory Salad: Yummy, classic and with the perfect vinegary tang. These wonderful ingredients must come from Smithfield's market.

King Prawns: I struggled to get my head around this dish. No complaints what-so-ever with the taste - they were meaty, juicy, garlicky and finger licking fabulous. But at £14.90 a plate they are effectively a fiver each! The thrifty Asian in me perked up it's head as I dipped the prawn back in it's juices and finished it off. Nice, but extravagant.

Butternut Squash Tortellini with Broccoli, Artichoke and Parmesan Shavings: All those words hit my marketing buttons on the head. One of my favourite dishes, I'm a complete sucker for dumpling shaped objects. The butternut squash filling had nuttiness and a hint of nutmeg, and was so aromatic amongst the vegetables.

Giant sausage, served with pancetta, lentils and green pesto: an awesome dish. The sausage was rather German in it's density and powerful, heavy meatiness. I was reminded very much of Mark Hix's Wild Boar Bacon in the uber pancetta beneath. Another favourite dish.

A selection of Beef, Pork and Chicken meatballs: these were really fun, and came with a choice of sauces. We chose spicy tomato for the Beef and Pork and Cream, Parmesan and Truffle Oil for the Chicken. This was tomato sauce you could dip anything into and the meatballs were the proper homemade ones. I wasn't entirely convinced by the white sauce though, I didn't get my usually heady hit of truffle?!

Mackerel with Samphire: I'd been wanting to try Samphire for ages and finally have! They call it Poor Man's Asparagus which is an apt description, and coming from the sea-bed it's inherent saltiness pairs well with fish. Again served with loads of garlic, the samphire lent texture and crunch to the oily mackerel. The dish is usually Sardines, but apparently they couldn't get them that day.

Finocchiona with Rye Bread: With a name like Pinocchio's lost sister, it's one that sparks conversation. A salami style meat, served with pecorino and has a real pepper hit. Has a lovely oily glaze and goes so well with the nutty rye.

Baked Alaska: *drum roll please*! The show stealer, the grand finale, the winner of the food beauty parade! Everyone loves a bit of theatre at the dinner table. Legend has it that Delmonico's restaurant in New York's financial district was the birthplace of this flamboyant delight. Giant Robot's version is nicely updated with a fruity panetone base, and orange liqueur as perhaps a nod to its Italian inspiration. I love how much attention it gets as alcohol is poured over and it flames in bright blue. Delicious. It's light, a mixture of varying softnesses, and creates the perfect crusty case when the meringue on top has burnt off.

A real must try! It's great when places don't take themselves seriously and still put in every effort into food and service. Our waiters were extremely helpful and knowledgeable about the dishes, just chilled out happy people. There are several dishes which aren't bang for your buck, though on the whole it's not bad value for money. Given that we had 3 cocktails, 1 excellent bottle of Montepulciano, 11 dishes and lots of entertainment, I won't yet complain at £40 a head for 3 people. Hurray for global tapas!

Polpo

I have a theory that tapas is the new main course in summer. We were treated to a spectacularly scorching weekend in the capital, the type that makes the English strip down, blaze themselves and end up looking like spicy chorizo. Hot weather equals longer days, equals more drinking outside, and equals the need to nibble to counter the drinking without committing to full-on meals.
Which is why Polpo will drag the crowds in. I had been to this cosy and rustic Soho joint in December, and was again standing for a table as the Friday rush began. It's an Italian bacaro, serving Venetian tapas and a concise, well selected list of Italian wines. Let the picnic begin.

Fritti Di Mare (in the background) and a Selection of Meats: I could have been transported back to the Amalfi Coast with that plate of fried seafood. Fresh prawns, calamari and anchovies, it was perfectly battered without being heavy or too oily. The Selection of Meat consisted of Bresaola, Parma Ham, Chorizo and Ham, topped with Fennel, Rocket and Mozzarella.

CuttleFish in Squid Ink: Seafood-on-Seafood Action. Thick, viscous and mysterious, I can't resist squid ink when I see it. The flavour was rich, garlicky and well seasoned. I loved dipping my bread in that black sauce.

Pork Belly (in the background) and Flank Steak in a Cream Truffle Sauce: Pork Belly was nothing but deep, unctuous and crispy on the edges, with hazelnuts to contrast with the heavy taste. Truffle cream on Flank steak was just dreamy, that pungent, intense and hypnotic mushroom aroma hits your nose before anything else, making you dive into each marbled and tender beef strip.

Asparagus with Parmesan: Rather girly, though in season. I could eat those green tips anyday, so am completely biased. Oh, and I got a clear shot of the medium bodied Italian vino we got hold of.

Lamb chump on White Beans: possibly the most mediocre of all dishes, and even then still good. I adore pulses, but perhaps too heavy on a sweaty day.

Galani Pick-Me-Up: Deconstructed TiraMiSu. It is not ice cream you see, but a cream whipped with vanilla seeds and coffee. The slight savoury cracker replaced sponge fingers and was the perfect vehicle for transporting the cream and chocolate sauce (laced with booze) into my mouth. Muchos likey.

Orange Semolina Cake: Despite it's dry appearance, this cake was moist and flavoured perfectly with orange, with adequate sandy bite from the semolina.

Let's pretend yet again that these days will stay long, bright and dry. If we can't stay outside, at least we've go the indoor picnic food. 3 bottles of wine, and lots of tapas amongst 5 people was £38 per head.